The Essequibo River is the largest river in Guyana and the biggest between the Orinoco and the Amazon. Its 20-kilometer-wide estuary is dotted with islands — 365 of them, according to popular lore. Most visitors experience these islands through organized 5-island tours costing $75-150 USD per person. But here's what tour companies won't tell you: the major islands have regular ferry service, and locals hop between them for a fraction of the cost.
This guide is for independent travelers who want to explore Leguan, Wakenaam, Fort Island, and Hog Island the way Guyanese do — by catching the ferry at Parika, bringing some snacks, and spending a day discovering Dutch colonial history, Hindu temples, quiet farming communities, and riverside swimming spots.
Leguan
Cycling, 52ft Hanuman statue, Dutch churches
Wakenaam
Rice farms, Dutch koker, peaceful villages
Fort Island
Fort Zeelandia, Dutch museum, colonial capital
Hog Island
Historic windmill, watermelons, largest island
Getting to the Islands: Parika Stelling
All journeys to the Essequibo Islands begin at Parika Stelling, the busy wharf town on the East Bank Essequibo. From Georgetown, the trip to Parika takes about 45-60 minutes by minibus, crossing the Demerara Harbour Bridge — one of the longest floating bridges in the world.
Georgetown to Parika
| Transport | Cost | Duration | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Route 32 Minibus | 500-800 GYD (~$2.50-4 USD) | 45-60 min | From Stabroek Market, departs when full |
| Private Taxi | 5,000-8,000 GYD (~$25-40 USD) | 45 min | Direct, negotiate price beforehand |
| Car Rental (self-drive) | $60-80 USD/day | 40 min | Can leave car at Parika while on islands |
Local Tip: Leave Early
Aim to reach Parika by 9:00am to maximize your island time. The MV Malali ferry to Leguan departs at 10:00am and returns at 3:00pm — miss it and you're relying on speedboats. Weekday mornings are less crowded than weekends.
Parika Stelling Services
Parika Stelling is a chaotic but functional hub. You'll find ticket offices for the government ferry, speedboat operators calling out destinations, food vendors selling snacks and drinks, and a market nearby. The Transport and Harbours Department (THD) operates the ferries, and since January 2023, you can book ferry spaces online at ferrypass.gy — particularly useful if you're bringing a vehicle.
Types of Boats
- Government Ferry (MV Malali): Large vehicle ferry, scheduled departures, cheapest option (~300 GYD)
- Speedboat: Small passenger boats, leave when full, faster but more expensive (~1,300-2,500 GYD depending on route)
- Jet Boat: Covered, smoother ride, premium option (~4,000-5,000 GYD)
- Private Charter: Hire a boat exclusively for your group (negotiate ~10,000-20,000 GYD)
Leguan Island: The Iguana Island
Leguan at a Glance
Named after the Dutch word for iguana ("leguaan"), this gull-wing shaped island was once home to many of these reptiles. Today, it's a quiet agricultural community known for rice farming, Hindu temples, and the largest Lord Hanuman statue in Guyana.
Leguan is the most accessible Essequibo island for independent visitors. The speedboat crosses in just 5 minutes from Parika, and the island's flat terrain makes it perfect for cycling. When settlers first arrived, they found the island crawling with iguanas — hence the Dutch name that stuck.
What to See on Leguan
Lord Hanuman Statue (Rama Krishna Mandir)
Located in Blenheim village, this 52-foot murti of Lord Hanuman is the largest in Guyana. Unveiled in 2016 after two years of construction, it cost over $5 million GYD and was built by sculptor Jainarine Prahalla with voluntary donations. The statue is at the Rama Krishna Mandir temple compound.
St. Peter's Anglican Church
Built in 1827, this historic church is one of the oldest surviving structures on the island. It represents the colonial-era architecture that once dominated the Essequibo region.
Dutch Colonial Buildings
Several structures from the Dutch colonial period remain, including old estate buildings and the characteristic architecture that defines coastal Guyana. The island's layout still follows the Dutch plantation system.
Religious Diversity
Leguan has five colorful Hindu temples, seven churches, and three mosques — reflecting the island's mixed Afro-Guyanese and Indo-Guyanese population. The religious architecture alone makes for an interesting cycling tour.
Cycling on Leguan
Bicycles are the primary mode of transportation on Leguan. The island has one main road circling its perimeter, plus smaller roads connecting the villages. The terrain is completely flat — perfect for leisurely cycling. Some guesthouses offer bicycle rentals, or you can ask around at the stelling upon arrival.
Cycling Leguan
- The island is roughly H-shaped with roads along north and south coasts connected by a central road
- A complete circuit takes 2-3 hours at a leisurely pace
- Bring water and sunscreen — shade is limited on the open roads
- If you can't find a rental, motorcycle taxis are available near the stelling
- Car taxis charge 3,000-5,000 GYD ($15-25 USD) for a complete island tour
Swimming on Leguan
Several beaches along the riverfront are suitable for swimming. The water is the brown color typical of Guyanese rivers — rich in tannins from the rainforest. Always check with locals about current conditions before swimming, as currents can be strong and conditions change with the tides.
Food on Leguan
Leguan has limited formal restaurant options, but you won't go hungry. Near the stelling, you'll find a few snackettes (small eateries) serving quick meals and snacks. Rum shops throughout the island serve simple but filling meals alongside drinks. Look for cook-up rice, pepperpot, curry and roti — all staples of Guyanese cuisine.
Important Notes for Leguan
- There are no banks or ATMs — bring enough cash for your visit
- No formal hotels, though some residents offer homestays (ask around)
- The population is hospitable and welcoming to visitors
- Many people also have motorbikes; a small group have cars
- Carry your own water and snacks as options may be limited
Wakenaam Island: Waiting for a Name
Wakenaam at a Glance
The Dutch never decided on a proper name for this island, so they called it "Wakenaam" — literally "waiting for a name" in Dutch. Three centuries later, the name stuck, and the island retains more visible Dutch heritage than anywhere else in the Essequibo.
Dutch Colonial History
Wakenaam's history runs deep. When the French invaded Fort Island in 1690, Dutch plantation owners fled and settled here, establishing Plantation Maria Johanna. The British took control in 1716 and expanded the plantation system. At its peak in the 1600s, Wakenaam had 29 sugar grinding estates.
The Koker at Maria Johanna
At Maria Johanna village, a Dutch koker (sluice gate) built in the 1600s still stands in remarkably good condition. This claybrick water management structure continues to operate, controlling water flow just as it did over 300 years ago. Scattered around the island, you'll also find old Dutch burial grounds and massive silk-cotton trees that date back centuries.
Villages of Wakenaam
The island's villages carry names bestowed by Dutch and British plantation owners: Maria's Pleasure, Good Success, Sans Souci, Melville, Belle Plaine, Sarah, Zeelandia, Friendship, Bank Hall, Meer Zorg, Caledonia, Free and Easy, Arthurville, Palmyra, Maria Johanna, Domburg, Fredericksburg, Noitgedacht, Rush Brook, and Ridge.
The main settlement is Sans Souci (French for "without worry"), located near the ferry stelling. This is where you'll find most services — small shops, food stalls, and the businesses that serve the farming community.
What to See on Wakenaam
Dutch Koker at Maria Johanna
This centuries-old water management structure is still operational. The claybrick koker controls water flow between the island's interior and the river — a testament to Dutch engineering.
Ancient Silk-Cotton Trees
Massive silk-cotton trees (ceiba pentandra) are scattered across Wakenaam, some several centuries old. These giants can reach heights of 60-70 meters and hold significant spiritual meaning in local culture.
Dutch Burial Grounds
Several Dutch graveyards remain on the island, with old tombstones marking the resting places of colonial-era settlers. These sites offer a tangible connection to the island's European past.
Rice and Coconut Farms
Agriculture remains the backbone of Wakenaam's economy. Walking through the island, you'll see active rice paddies and coconut groves — the landscape that has sustained islanders for generations.
Food and Culture
Sans Souci village has small restaurants and food stalls near the stelling where you can sample local cuisine. The food reflects the island's cultural heritage — a mix of Amerindian, African, East Indian, and Dutch influences creating distinctly Guyanese flavors.
Try Fresh Coconut Water
Vendors throughout Wakenaam sell fresh coconut water straight from the nut — the perfect refreshment in tropical heat. The island's coconut farms mean it's always fresh and always available.
Festivals on Wakenaam
The island celebrates throughout the year: Phagwah/Holi in March brings colorful celebrations, Mashramani in February marks Republic Day, Diwali in October/November lights up the villages, and Christmas features unique Guyanese traditions. If your visit coincides with a festival, you'll experience the island at its most vibrant.
Fort Island: The Colonial Capital
Fort Island at a Glance
Once the capital of Dutch Essequibo and Demerara colonies, Fort Island (formerly Flag Island) houses the best-preserved Dutch colonial structures in Guyana. Fort Zeelandia and the Court of Policy are UNESCO World Heritage tentative list sites.
Historical Significance
The Dutch were the first Europeans to establish settlements in the Essequibo region. In 1720, as the colony expanded, they built a new fort on Flag Island — Fort Zeelandia — which became the seat of Dutch administration. The island's strategic position 16 kilometers from the river mouth made it ideal for controlling access to the interior.
Dutch Colonial Timeline
- 1616: Fort Kyk-Over-Al built further upriver as first Dutch headquarters
- 1720: Decision to build new fort downstream on Flag Island
- 1726: First wooden fort constructed
- 1743: Current brick Fort Zeelandia built (replacing wooden structure)
- 1752: Court of Policy building constructed
- 1999: Declared a national monument
- 2000: Fort Zeelandia restored by Guyana National Trust
Fort Zeelandia
The current brick fort, built in 1743, is among the oldest structures in Guyana. It's a compact 15 x 20 meter structure surrounded by four ramparts at each corner. The name comes from the county of Zeeland in the Netherlands, where many settlers originated.
Today, the restored fort houses a museum detailing the history of Fort Island and 300 years of Dutch colonization along the north shore of South America. The collection includes old maps of Guyana and Dutch tombstones recovered from the area.
Court of Policy
Adjacent to the fort stands the Court of Policy — the oldest non-military building in Guyana, constructed in 1752. This building served multiple purposes during the colonial era: it functioned as a church, courthouse, and — in one of its darker chapters — a venture office where enslaved people were sold. Understanding this history is essential to understanding Guyana itself.
Getting to Fort Island Independently
Here's where independent travel gets tricky. Unlike Leguan and Wakenaam, Fort Island has no regular ferry service. You have two realistic options:
Option 1: Private Boat Hire
Negotiate with speedboat operators at Parika Stelling to take you directly to Fort Island and back. Expect to pay 10,000-15,000 GYD ($50-75 USD) for the round trip. Confirm the price, waiting time, and return pickup before departing. This gives you flexibility but requires negotiation skills.
Option 2: Join an Organized Tour
Several Georgetown tour operators run day trips that include Fort Island as one of 4-5 stops. Prices range from $75-150 USD per person including lunch. Operators include Evergreen Adventures, Dagron Tours, and Wilderness Explorers. Tours typically require a minimum of 12 guests.
When to Visit
The museum is frequented by locals on weekends and sees more foreign visitors during the August vacation period. Weekdays tend to be quieter but still accessible. The small community on Fort Island has increasingly oriented around tourism — you may find guides available on arrival.
Hog Island: The Largest Island
Hog Island at a Glance
Originally named "Varken Eiland" (Pig Island) by the Dutch in the 17th century, Hog Island is larger than many Caribbean islands. It's known for its historic brick windmill, watermelons, and agricultural way of life.
Hog Island (also spelled Hogg Island) sits in the Essequibo estuary and represents the largest island in the entire river system. This is not a casual day trip destination — reaching Hog Island requires several hours on the water and careful timing with the tides.
The Historic Windmill
Hog Island's main attraction is Guyana's only historic brick windmill, built in 1768. The National Trust has rehabilitated this structure, transforming it into a visitor-friendly heritage site. The windmill offers a tangible connection to the island's plantation past and Dutch colonial legacy.
Island Life
With a population of only about 250 people, Hog Island offers an authentic glimpse into rural Essequibo life. The economy centers on agriculture — the island is particularly famous for its succulent watermelons. You'll also see sprawling fields of corn, pumpkins, and livestock farms.
Access Challenges
- The tide is always rough at this section of the river, creating large swells
- When the tide is low, boat travel becomes difficult or impossible
- The journey requires several hours on the water and exposure to the elements
- Not suitable for travelers with limited mobility (uneven terrain)
- Best visited during dry seasons: February to April and late August to early November
Visiting Hog Island
Independent travel to Hog Island is challenging. You'll need to arrange a boat from Parika (via Hubu Koker) and be prepared for a multi-hour journey navigating rough waters. The people are described as simple and welcoming, but services for tourists are essentially nonexistent — this is genuine off-the-beaten-path travel.
Most visitors to Hog Island do so through organized 5-island tours that include it as one of several stops. This ensures proper boat logistics, guides familiar with the area, and time-efficient routing.
Ferry Schedules and Costs
The Transport and Harbours Department operates government ferries from Parika Stelling. The MV Malali typically services the Leguan and Wakenaam routes. Since January 2023, you can book online at ferrypass.gy.
| Route | Vessel | Departure | Return | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Parika to Leguan | MV Malali | 10:00am | 3:00pm | ~300 GYD (~$1.50 USD) |
| Parika to Leguan | Speedboat | Frequent (when full) | Flexible | ~500 GYD (~$2.50 USD) |
| Parika to Wakenaam | Ferry | Regular throughout day | Regular throughout day | ~300 GYD (~$1.50 USD) |
| Parika to Supenaam | Speedboat | Frequent | Frequent | 1,300 GYD (~$6 USD) |
| Parika to Bartica | Speedboat | Frequent (when full) | Flexible | 2,500 GYD (~$12 USD) |
Schedule Notes
- Schedules vary depending on tides, weather, and operational factors
- Government ferries are cheaper but less frequent
- Speedboats leave when full — typically every 30 minutes during peak hours
- Always confirm current schedules at Parika Stelling or on ferrypass.gy
- The government plans to improve the Leguan-Wakenaam-Supenaam route in 2026
Can You Visit Multiple Islands in One Day?
Yes, but it requires planning and flexibility. Here are your realistic options:
Leguan + Wakenaam (Challenging but Possible)
Take an early speedboat to Leguan (arrives by 8:00am), spend 2-3 hours cycling and exploring, then catch a speedboat across to Wakenaam. After exploring Wakenaam, return to Parika by afternoon ferry. This is tight and depends on boat availability — ask at the stelling about cross-island speedboats.
Fort Island + Bartica (Via Organized Tour)
The classic 5-island tour hits Fort Island, Fort Kyk-Over-Al, Sloth Island or Baganara, and Bartica in one day. This typically costs $75-150 USD per person with lunch included. For Fort Island specifically, this is often the most practical approach.
One Island Done Well
Honestly? Spending a full day on one island — especially Leguan or Wakenaam — offers a more relaxed and authentic experience than rushing between multiple stops. You'll have time to cycle at leisure, chat with locals, find the hidden swimming spots, and actually absorb the pace of island life.
The 5-Island Tour Alternative
Organized 5-island tours typically include Fort Island, Fort Kyk-Over-Al, Sloth Island or Aruwai Resort, Marshall Falls, and Bartica market. Tours leave Georgetown around 6-7am and return by 5-6pm. If you want to see Fort Island and multiple stops, this is actually good value — you'd spend similar money chartering private boats.
What to Bring
Day Trip Packing List
- Cash: ATMs don't exist on the islands, and cards aren't accepted
- Water and snacks: Options are limited — bring more than you think you'll need
- Sunscreen and hat: Limited shade on the islands
- Insect repellent: Mosquitoes are present, especially near water
- Swimsuit and towel: For riverside swimming
- Light rain jacket: Brief afternoon showers are common even in dry season
- Camera: The sunsets over the Essequibo are spectacular
- Waterproof bag: For the boat ride — you may get splashed
Best Time to Visit
The primary dry season from February to April offers the most favorable conditions: minimal rainfall, temperatures of 25-30C (77-86F), and more reliable boat transportation. The secondary dry season from September to November is also good, with fewer tourists.
Weekends bring more local visitors to the islands — families enjoying cookouts, swimming, and socializing. Weekdays are quieter and offer more solitude for exploration.
Explore More of Guyana's Rivers
The Essequibo Islands are just the beginning. Discover river tours, interior expeditions, and the 365 islands that dot Guyana's mighty waterways.
River Tours GuideFrequently Asked Questions
How do I get to Leguan Island from Georgetown?
Take a minibus from Stabroek Market to Parika (about 1 hour, 500-800 GYD). From Parika Stelling, catch the MV Malali ferry to Leguan (departs 10:00am, returns 3:00pm) or take a speedboat which crosses in just 5 minutes. Speedboats run frequently throughout the day.
What is the ferry schedule from Parika to Wakenaam?
Ferries to Wakenaam run regularly throughout the day from Parika Stelling. The journey takes approximately 30 minutes and costs around 300 GYD. You can check schedules and book online at ferrypass.gy. The MV Malali also services this route.
Can I visit Fort Island independently without a tour?
Yes, but it requires more effort than visiting Leguan or Wakenaam. You'll need to hire a private boat from Parika Stelling, which costs around 10,000-15,000 GYD for a round trip. There's no regular ferry service to Fort Island. Most visitors join organized 5-island tours, but independent travel is possible with negotiation.
Can I visit multiple Essequibo islands in one day?
Visiting both Leguan and Wakenaam in one day is possible but tight due to ferry schedules. You'd need to take an early speedboat to one island, explore quickly, then catch transport to the other. Fort Island requires a separate trip. Organized 5-island tours exist if you want to see multiple islands with less hassle.
What is there to see on Leguan Island?
Key attractions include the 52-foot Lord Hanuman statue at Rama Krishna Mandir (the largest in Guyana), St. Peter's Anglican Church built in 1827, Dutch colonial buildings, several Hindu temples, and riverside beaches. The island is excellent for cycling with flat roads circling the island.
Is there food available on the Essequibo Islands?
Food options are limited but available. Leguan has snackettes near the stelling, rum shops serving simple meals, and home-style eateries. Wakenaam's Sans Souci village has small restaurants and food stalls. Bring cash as cards aren't accepted, and consider packing snacks and water as options may be limited.
What is the historical significance of Fort Island?
Fort Island was once the capital of Dutch Essequibo and Demerara colonies. Fort Zeelandia, built in 1743 (replacing a 1726 wooden fort), is among the oldest structures in Guyana. The Court of Policy building (1752) is the oldest non-military structure in the country. Both are now UNESCO World Heritage tentative list sites.
What is the best time to visit the Essequibo Islands?
The primary dry season from February to April offers the best conditions with minimal rainfall and more reliable boat transportation. The secondary dry season (September to November) is also good. Weekends are busier with local visitors; weekdays offer a quieter experience.
Last updated: January 2026. For more day trip ideas, see our Linden & Bartica Day Trips Guide and River Tours Guide. Ferry schedules change — always confirm at Parika Stelling or on ferrypass.gy before traveling.